Monday 31 October 2011
Using Plants To Control Pests
“There are numerous fruit and vegetable crops with properties that with proper attention I can use to control insects and diseases.
The plants that I have listed below have pesticide properties in their seeds, leaves, stalks, un-ripe fruit, bulbs rhizomes etc., and act by different modes of action. Each one controls different pests including: aphids, caterpillars, green bugs, fruit flies, leaf minors, red spiders, ants, slugs, house flies, mites, white flies, bacteria, scab, bowl-worm, thrips, anthracnose, hoppers, scales, termites, thrips, mosaic virus, powder mildew etc.
The useful part of a plant can easily be collected and used as a natural pesticide on a crop and can of course be established on a small scale in rural areas near farms. Fruit and vegetables with natural pesticide properties include: custard apple (Annona reticulata), basil (Sweet Basil) and Holy Basil, chillies (Capsicum frutes), (Fam. Sollanacea), garlic (Allium Sativum) (F. Lilacae), ginger (Zingber officiate) (fm. Zingiberatase), neem, papaya (Carcia papaya), tobacco (Nictana tabacum, Nicotana, Rustica) and nicotana glutnosa (Fam. Ziberacease).
Insect-controlling plants
Pest control plants should posses the following characteristics:
The plants that I have listed below have pesticide properties in their seeds, leaves, stalks, un-ripe fruit, bulbs rhizomes etc., and act by different modes of action. Each one controls different pests including: aphids, caterpillars, green bugs, fruit flies, leaf minors, red spiders, ants, slugs, house flies, mites, white flies, bacteria, scab, bowl-worm, thrips, anthracnose, hoppers, scales, termites, thrips, mosaic virus, powder mildew etc.
The useful part of a plant can easily be collected and used as a natural pesticide on a crop and can of course be established on a small scale in rural areas near farms. Fruit and vegetables with natural pesticide properties include: custard apple (Annona reticulata), basil (Sweet Basil) and Holy Basil, chillies (Capsicum frutes), (Fam. Sollanacea), garlic (Allium Sativum) (F. Lilacae), ginger (Zingber officiate) (fm. Zingiberatase), neem, papaya (Carcia papaya), tobacco (Nictana tabacum, Nicotana, Rustica) and nicotana glutnosa (Fam. Ziberacease).
Insect-controlling plants
Pest control plants should posses the following characteristics:
- Be effective at the rate of a maximum of 3-5% plant material based on dry weight
- Be easy to grow, require little space and time for cultivation and procurement
- Be perennial, recover quickly after the material is harvested
- Not become weed or a host to plant pathogen or insect pest
- Possess complementary economic uses
- Pose no hazard to non-target organisms, wild life, humans or environment
- Be easy to harvest preparation should be simple, not too time consuming or requiring excessive technical input
- Application should not be phyto-toxic or decrease the quality of crop, e.g. taste or texture
Below is a list of useful agricultural species, their pesticide properties and the method of preparation:
Soursop Custard apple (Annona reticulata)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: seeds, leaves, unripe fruit
Mode of action: Contact and stomach problem, ovicidal, insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent and antinematode.
Target pests: aphid, caterpillars, green bug and Mediterranean fruit fly.
Preparation: 500 grams of custard apple leaves, boil in 2 ½ litres of water, until only 1/4 of the original is left, then dilute this mixture into 15-20 litres of water. This is good enough for one hectare.
Basil Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilium), Holy Basil (Ocimum Sanctum)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves and stem
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal, fungitoxic and mollu scicidol.
Target pests: fruit fly, leaf miners, red spider and mites.
Preparation: 100g basil leaves dipped in to 1 litre of water. This should be soaked overnight in water. Filter the mixture and add 1ml of liquid soap, stir properly. Dilute into 10-15 litres of water.
Chillies
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: fruit
Mode of action: stomach position insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent, fumigant-viroid.
Target pests: ants, aphid, caterpillars and slugs.
Preparation: 500g of chillies, dip into 3 litres of water for 10-15 minutes. Add 30g of soap as sticker. Add 3 more litres of water, filter and then spray the plants. One can add tobacco, garlic, onion, citrus, alcohol, neem and lime.
Garlic Allium Sativum (Fam. Lilaceqe)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: bulbs
Mode of action: insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent, fungicidalnematocidal and is effective against ticks.
Target pest: aphids, house flies, mites, white fly, bacteria, cucumber and scab.
Preparation: 3 bulbs of garlic, ground finely, add some kerosene, keep for 2 days. Add 1 table-spoon of soap powder, stir and filter and add 15-20 litres of water.
Ginger Zingiber officiale (Fam. Zingiberacae)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: rhizome
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal, nematocidal and fungicidal.
Target pests: American bowl worms, aphid, thrips, white fly, and mango anthracnose.
Preparation: 500g of crushed garlic add 10ml of kerosene oil kept overnight. Next day remove outer skin of ginger and make ginger paste. In another vessel add 100g green chillies, mixed with 50ml of water and add 30g of liquid soap as emulsifier. Solution is stirred and filtered and 10-15 ml of water added.
Neem
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: seeds and leaves
Mode of action: insecticidal, repellent, antifeedant acaricidal, growth inhibiting nematocidal, fungicidal, anti-viral. Neem compounds act mainly as stomach poison and systemic.
Target pests: Aphid, American boll-worms, ants, deserts, locust, leaf hoppers, leaf miners, mites, scales, termites, thrips, white fly.
Preparation: 1 kg of neem leaves dipped into 2 litres of water and left overnight. Boil it 15-20 minutes untill 1/4 is left. Dilute with 10-15ml of water.
Papaya Carcia papaya
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves, seed, unripe fruit
Mode of action: flower thrips and fruit fly.
Target pests: mosaic virus and powdery mildew.
Preparation: 1 kg of finely shredded leaves, placed in 1 litre of water and squeezed through a cloth. Take 1 litre of soap solution, dilute it in 10-15 ml water.
Tobacco Nicotana tabacum, Nicotana Rustica, Nicotana glutnosa, and Fam. Solanaceae
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves and stalk
Mode of action: insecticida, repellent, fungicidal, acaricidal contact, and stomach.
Target pests: aphids, caterpillars, leaf miners, mites and thrips.
Preparation: boil 4 litres of water, add ½ kg of tobacco leaves and 1 table spoon of lime. Dilute it with 10-15 litres of water.
Tumeric Curcum domstica (Fam. Zigiberaceoe)
Plant parts with insect controlling propertie: rhizome
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal and antifungal.
Target pests: aphids, caterpillars, mites and rice leaf hoppers.
Preparation: 500g of turmeric rhizomes chopped and soaked overnight, dilute into 2 litres of water and again dilute into another 10-15ml of water.
The Rationale
The purpose of introducing pesticide free fruits and vegetables is to increase the support and significance of natural crop protection and sustainable organic agriculture. It provides links with approaches and methodologies that allow growers to put basic information into practice. Ultimately this will provide farmers with the experience and confidence needed to make the best use of the resource available to them and to use this knowledge to farm sustainably.
Commercial scale applications
The plant species listed in this article are grown in Pakistan in abundance but have never been tried on a commercial scale. Even neem that is known to control numerous insects, pests, fungi, nematodes and viral diseases is still used and processed in a very primitive manner. A solution has to be found for its commercial scale applications and extraction of pesticide properties of plants on a much larger scale. One solution would be for the market price to be guaranteed by the government so that the private sector can achieve results easily.
Information deficiency
There is demand world over for pesticide free food, but the information on the various natural pesticides is lacking and therefore, these methods are little used in Pakistan and other developing countries. This is partly due to the fact that processing techniques have not been fully understood. The process of extraction is known theoretically, but large scale production has not yet made any headway, although there is great scope for export opportunities.
Nurturing success
In order to produce fruit and vegetables using sustainable locally produced inputs we need to identify constraints of crop production. We also need to develop an appropriate training course on Integrated Pest Management for the target smallholders farming system. Ultimately this strategy will help to boost our economy through the increased export of high value ‘non toxic’ food produce.
Soursop Custard apple (Annona reticulata)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: seeds, leaves, unripe fruit
Mode of action: Contact and stomach problem, ovicidal, insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent and antinematode.
Target pests: aphid, caterpillars, green bug and Mediterranean fruit fly.
Preparation: 500 grams of custard apple leaves, boil in 2 ½ litres of water, until only 1/4 of the original is left, then dilute this mixture into 15-20 litres of water. This is good enough for one hectare.
Basil Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilium), Holy Basil (Ocimum Sanctum)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves and stem
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal, fungitoxic and mollu scicidol.
Target pests: fruit fly, leaf miners, red spider and mites.
Preparation: 100g basil leaves dipped in to 1 litre of water. This should be soaked overnight in water. Filter the mixture and add 1ml of liquid soap, stir properly. Dilute into 10-15 litres of water.
Chillies
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: fruit
Mode of action: stomach position insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent, fumigant-viroid.
Target pests: ants, aphid, caterpillars and slugs.
Preparation: 500g of chillies, dip into 3 litres of water for 10-15 minutes. Add 30g of soap as sticker. Add 3 more litres of water, filter and then spray the plants. One can add tobacco, garlic, onion, citrus, alcohol, neem and lime.
Garlic Allium Sativum (Fam. Lilaceqe)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: bulbs
Mode of action: insecticidal, repellent, antifeedent, fungicidalnematocidal and is effective against ticks.
Target pest: aphids, house flies, mites, white fly, bacteria, cucumber and scab.
Preparation: 3 bulbs of garlic, ground finely, add some kerosene, keep for 2 days. Add 1 table-spoon of soap powder, stir and filter and add 15-20 litres of water.
Ginger Zingiber officiale (Fam. Zingiberacae)
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: rhizome
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal, nematocidal and fungicidal.
Target pests: American bowl worms, aphid, thrips, white fly, and mango anthracnose.
Preparation: 500g of crushed garlic add 10ml of kerosene oil kept overnight. Next day remove outer skin of ginger and make ginger paste. In another vessel add 100g green chillies, mixed with 50ml of water and add 30g of liquid soap as emulsifier. Solution is stirred and filtered and 10-15 ml of water added.
Neem
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: seeds and leaves
Mode of action: insecticidal, repellent, antifeedant acaricidal, growth inhibiting nematocidal, fungicidal, anti-viral. Neem compounds act mainly as stomach poison and systemic.
Target pests: Aphid, American boll-worms, ants, deserts, locust, leaf hoppers, leaf miners, mites, scales, termites, thrips, white fly.
Preparation: 1 kg of neem leaves dipped into 2 litres of water and left overnight. Boil it 15-20 minutes untill 1/4 is left. Dilute with 10-15ml of water.
Papaya Carcia papaya
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves, seed, unripe fruit
Mode of action: flower thrips and fruit fly.
Target pests: mosaic virus and powdery mildew.
Preparation: 1 kg of finely shredded leaves, placed in 1 litre of water and squeezed through a cloth. Take 1 litre of soap solution, dilute it in 10-15 ml water.
Tobacco Nicotana tabacum, Nicotana Rustica, Nicotana glutnosa, and Fam. Solanaceae
Plant parts with insect controlling properties: leaves and stalk
Mode of action: insecticida, repellent, fungicidal, acaricidal contact, and stomach.
Target pests: aphids, caterpillars, leaf miners, mites and thrips.
Preparation: boil 4 litres of water, add ½ kg of tobacco leaves and 1 table spoon of lime. Dilute it with 10-15 litres of water.
Tumeric Curcum domstica (Fam. Zigiberaceoe)
Plant parts with insect controlling propertie: rhizome
Mode of action: repellent, insecticidal and antifungal.
Target pests: aphids, caterpillars, mites and rice leaf hoppers.
Preparation: 500g of turmeric rhizomes chopped and soaked overnight, dilute into 2 litres of water and again dilute into another 10-15ml of water.
The Rationale
The purpose of introducing pesticide free fruits and vegetables is to increase the support and significance of natural crop protection and sustainable organic agriculture. It provides links with approaches and methodologies that allow growers to put basic information into practice. Ultimately this will provide farmers with the experience and confidence needed to make the best use of the resource available to them and to use this knowledge to farm sustainably.
Commercial scale applications
The plant species listed in this article are grown in Pakistan in abundance but have never been tried on a commercial scale. Even neem that is known to control numerous insects, pests, fungi, nematodes and viral diseases is still used and processed in a very primitive manner. A solution has to be found for its commercial scale applications and extraction of pesticide properties of plants on a much larger scale. One solution would be for the market price to be guaranteed by the government so that the private sector can achieve results easily.
Information deficiency
There is demand world over for pesticide free food, but the information on the various natural pesticides is lacking and therefore, these methods are little used in Pakistan and other developing countries. This is partly due to the fact that processing techniques have not been fully understood. The process of extraction is known theoretically, but large scale production has not yet made any headway, although there is great scope for export opportunities.
Nurturing success
In order to produce fruit and vegetables using sustainable locally produced inputs we need to identify constraints of crop production. We also need to develop an appropriate training course on Integrated Pest Management for the target smallholders farming system. Ultimately this strategy will help to boost our economy through the increased export of high value ‘non toxic’ food produce.
Sunday 30 October 2011
Friday 28 October 2011
Green Peach Aphids control using EPA Neem oil insecticide:
Aphids are petite and pulpy insects known widely for their distinctive attack of sucking plant nutrients and leaving it dry. Normally, aphids are seen attacking various Solanaceous crops such as potato, peppers, tomatoes, etc., In particular, an aphid breed called Green Peach Aphid (Myzus persicae) is observed to have an influential attack on different crops with different symptoms. Peach gardens and potato farms of United States and Canada extensively procure plant diseases caused by this insect breed often. Tender Smooth peaches undergo rough face of this aphid attack than those have hard surfaced peaches. Since aphids procreate vastly during summer months, the young ones called nymphs wander to various host plant varieties expanding their boundary of impairment. This transfer of aphids from one plant to the other can also spread new fungal infections in plants because of the dew which the insect excretes after sucking the plant nutrients. In addition to plants, weeds that are grown within the farm will serve as the breeding place for the species.
Curling of leaves and flowers are the common symptoms observed in the plants after aphid’s action, which eventually affects the formation of fruits in the Plant. Greenhouse plants will witness failure in the shoot system if the population of the insect is not controlled. Nectarine, young peach having smooth skin will suffer injury created by the aphids on its feed that finally ruins further growth of the fruit. Green Peach Aphid is considered to be one of the destructive insects of Potatoes where they cause the Potato virus Y and Potato leafroll virus on their due course of attack.
All these infestations of Green Peach Aphids can be controlled effortlessly if the population of the aphids is less but when they start procreating themselves during summer it will be difficult to eradicate as well as protect the plant from the consequential effects of the aphid attack. Therefore, it is very vital to control the aphid population in order to ensure protection in the potato farm or peach garden. Intensive inspection of the insect should be done in the farm prior taking the control measures.
While coming to the controlling method, Organic insecticidal sprays can be offered a trial to make sure effective control and protection from environmental side effects. Particularly, Neem oil extract certified by Environmental Protection Agency of US can be used against the insects by spraying in the garden and farms regularly as the organic product owns the characteristic of an insecticide with the presence of a unique constituent called Azadirachtin. To some extent, this extract can control the insects and also keep the plants safe from further invasion of aphids by repelling the insects with its strong foul smell. The population of aphids can also be controlled biologically by encouraging few predator insects like lacewings, lady beetles, Syrphid flies, etc. in the farm.
Curling of leaves and flowers are the common symptoms observed in the plants after aphid’s action, which eventually affects the formation of fruits in the Plant. Greenhouse plants will witness failure in the shoot system if the population of the insect is not controlled. Nectarine, young peach having smooth skin will suffer injury created by the aphids on its feed that finally ruins further growth of the fruit. Green Peach Aphid is considered to be one of the destructive insects of Potatoes where they cause the Potato virus Y and Potato leafroll virus on their due course of attack.
All these infestations of Green Peach Aphids can be controlled effortlessly if the population of the aphids is less but when they start procreating themselves during summer it will be difficult to eradicate as well as protect the plant from the consequential effects of the aphid attack. Therefore, it is very vital to control the aphid population in order to ensure protection in the potato farm or peach garden. Intensive inspection of the insect should be done in the farm prior taking the control measures.
While coming to the controlling method, Organic insecticidal sprays can be offered a trial to make sure effective control and protection from environmental side effects. Particularly, Neem oil extract certified by Environmental Protection Agency of US can be used against the insects by spraying in the garden and farms regularly as the organic product owns the characteristic of an insecticide with the presence of a unique constituent called Azadirachtin. To some extent, this extract can control the insects and also keep the plants safe from further invasion of aphids by repelling the insects with its strong foul smell. The population of aphids can also be controlled biologically by encouraging few predator insects like lacewings, lady beetles, Syrphid flies, etc. in the farm.
Neem Oil Insecticide and Fungicide
Neem Oil Insecticide
Neem oil solidifies even at room temperature. Mixed with water, it's a sprayable form and is easy to use to saturate the entire plant.BioNeem® is a neem oil insecticide that's particularly effective. You can use it to safely treat your house plants for mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, thrips and fungus gnats. It kills many other bugs, too. However, these are the most commonly found on indoor plants.
How it works. Neem oil doesn't instantly kill the insects. It causes them to lose their appetites so they starve to death. It also reduces female fertility and inhibits reproduction. Usually, 2-3 applications are necessary, to affect every life stage.
How to use neem oil. The product is mixed with water and sprayed directly on house plants. Spray the stems and undersides of the leaves as well because that's where most bugs hide. Also spray the surface of the soil because many insects lay eggs in the soil. You want to get eggs and larvae, too.
Read and follow all directions and precautions on the product label before using any insecticide.
Neem Oil Fungicide
Many tests have shown neem oil to effectively control black spot, fungus and powdery mildew -- common problems that sometimes affect house plants, especially ivy and flowering plants.Spray leaves with neem oil mixed with 2 teaspoons of baking soda. Although this treatment won't get rid of fungus already on the plant, it will prevent the spread of fungus and mildew.
Botanical Insecticides
Botanical insecticides are naturally occurring chemicals extracted from plants. Natural pesticidal products are available as an alternative to synthetic chemical formulations but they are not necessarily less toxic to humans. Some of the most deadly, fast acting toxins and potent carcinogens occur naturally. Some of the botanical pesticides are very toxic to fish and other cold-blooded creatures and should be treated with care. Protective clothing should be worn when spraying, even though their toxicity is normally low to warm-blooded animals. Botanical insecticides break down readily in soil and are not stored in plant or animal tissue. Often their effects are not as long lasting as those of synthetic pesticides and some of these products may be very difficult to find.
Citrus oil (limonene, linalool) are extracts from citrus peels primarily used as flea dips, but have been combined with soaps as contact poisons against aphids and mites. They evaporate quickly after application and provide no residual control.
Nicotine concentrate is very poisonous if inhaled. It is derived from tobacco and is commonly sold as a 40 percent nicotine sulfate concentrate. Nicotine is a fast acting contact killer for soft bodied insects, but does not kill most chewing insects. It is less effective when applied during cool weather. Do not spray within 7 days of harvest.
Pyrethrin is a fast acting contact poison derived from the pyrethrum daisy. It is very toxic to cold blooded animals. Some people and most cats have allergic reactions to it. Pyrethrin is effective on most insects, but does not control mites. It rapidly breaks down in sunlight, air and water.
Rotenone is derived from the roots of over 68 plant species, and is very toxic to fish, pigs, and cool-blooded animals. It has a short residual. Rotenone is a broad spectrum poison mainly used to control leaf-eating caterpillars and beetles. Direct contact may cause skin and mucous membrane irritation. It is more toxic when inhaled.
Ryania is a slow acting stomach poison. It has a longer residual than most botanicals. Toxicity to mammals is moderate.
Sabadilla is derived from the seeds of South American lilies. It is a broad spectrum contact poison, but has some activity as a stomach poison. It is most effective against true bugs such as harlequin bugs and squash bugs. Sabadilla degrades rapidly in air and sunlight, and has little residual toxicity. It is very toxic to honey bees. The least toxic botanical to humans.
Neem is a relatively new product on the market. It is derived from the neem tree that grows in arid tropical regions. Extracts from the neem tree have been reported to control over 200 types of insects, mites, and nematodes. The neem spray solution should not be exposed to sunlight and must be prepared with water having a temperature between 50 and 90°F. The solution is effective for only 8 hours after mixing. Neem is most effective under humid conditions or when the insect and plants are damp. It has a low toxicity to mammals.
Citrus oil (limonene, linalool) are extracts from citrus peels primarily used as flea dips, but have been combined with soaps as contact poisons against aphids and mites. They evaporate quickly after application and provide no residual control.
Nicotine concentrate is very poisonous if inhaled. It is derived from tobacco and is commonly sold as a 40 percent nicotine sulfate concentrate. Nicotine is a fast acting contact killer for soft bodied insects, but does not kill most chewing insects. It is less effective when applied during cool weather. Do not spray within 7 days of harvest.
Pyrethrin is a fast acting contact poison derived from the pyrethrum daisy. It is very toxic to cold blooded animals. Some people and most cats have allergic reactions to it. Pyrethrin is effective on most insects, but does not control mites. It rapidly breaks down in sunlight, air and water.
Rotenone is derived from the roots of over 68 plant species, and is very toxic to fish, pigs, and cool-blooded animals. It has a short residual. Rotenone is a broad spectrum poison mainly used to control leaf-eating caterpillars and beetles. Direct contact may cause skin and mucous membrane irritation. It is more toxic when inhaled.
Ryania is a slow acting stomach poison. It has a longer residual than most botanicals. Toxicity to mammals is moderate.
Sabadilla is derived from the seeds of South American lilies. It is a broad spectrum contact poison, but has some activity as a stomach poison. It is most effective against true bugs such as harlequin bugs and squash bugs. Sabadilla degrades rapidly in air and sunlight, and has little residual toxicity. It is very toxic to honey bees. The least toxic botanical to humans.
Neem is a relatively new product on the market. It is derived from the neem tree that grows in arid tropical regions. Extracts from the neem tree have been reported to control over 200 types of insects, mites, and nematodes. The neem spray solution should not be exposed to sunlight and must be prepared with water having a temperature between 50 and 90°F. The solution is effective for only 8 hours after mixing. Neem is most effective under humid conditions or when the insect and plants are damp. It has a low toxicity to mammals.
| Insecticide | Use Against |
| Pyrethrum | Pickleworms, aphids, leafhoppers, spider mites, harlequin bugs, cabbage worms. |
| Neem | Cutworms, armyworms, sodworms. |
| Rotenone | Spittlebugs, aphids, potato beetles, harlequin bugs, chinch bugs, spider mites, carpenter ants. |
| Ryania | Codling moths, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, potato aphids, onion thrips, corn earworms, silkworms. |
| Sabadilla | Grasshoppers, codling moths, moths, armyworms, aphids, cabbage loopers, blister beetles, squash bugs, harlequin bugs. |
| Nicotine | Aphids, thrips, caterpillars. |
Neem as a Biopesticide
Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica), which is native to arid regions of India. The active ingredient in neem oil is azadarachtin, which interrupts the natural lifecycle of many insects, preventing them from reaching maturity, molting and reproducing. Neem is gaining popularity because, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, it has no adverse effects to humans, wildlife or the environment.
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Source
- Humans have used oil extracted from parts of the neem tree for millennia for medicinal, cosmetic and pesticide purposes, according to the EPA. The tree is medium to large in size, with furrowed, dark brown to gray bark and a dense, rounded crown. The neem seeds, bark and leaves are the sources of neem extracts.
Types
- Two types of neem oil are available for horticultural use and each is labeled for use on different problems. One contains the azadirachtin, the main active ingredient in the oil and the other is called clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil, which has been treated with alcohol to remove the azadirachtin.
Function
- Both types of neem oil are safe to use on food and non-food crops. Azadirachtin deters certain insects from feeding and disrupts their normal lifecycle. Clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil performs similarly to azadirachtin, but is also labeled for use against fungal diseases.
Benefits
- Neem oil is much less harmful to animal, insect and human life than commercial insecticides. It is especially effective against lepidopterons, but is also effective against whiteflies, moth larvae, mites, aphids, several types of mildew, rust and aphid-transmitted viruses.
Considerations
- Neem oil works best as a preventative treatment rather than a control measure for mature adult insects. Neem oil should be applied when conditions are dry so the oil completely evaporates and plants are not at risk of phytotoxicity; dry conditions prevent damage to stressed and non-stressed plants. Neem oil will kill honeybees and contaminate water and applications should therefore be made at night or in the evening when bees are not feeding and should not be made near bodies of water.
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Tips For Using Neem Oil Soap
What Is Neem Oil Soap?
Neem oil soap is an insect control product derived from the oil from the neem tree (native to Asia and Africa). It is extremely effective as an insecticide or in some cases as a fungicide. For insect control, the active chemicals in neem oil soap act in two ways, they either repel insects or kill them. Unlike synthetic pesticides, the neem oil soap molecules do not act as a nerve or stomach poison, but rather they degrade the protective, water-proofing insect exoskeleton. The neem oil soap breaks down this exoskeleton, disrupting normal membrane functions, often causing the insect to dry out and die. For foliage feedeers such as cabbage loopers, neem oil soap repels the insect by making plants unpalatable. As a repellent, it last for up to 30 days. Neem oil soap's dual role as a repellent and an insecticide may make it doubly difficult for insects to develop resistance to it.Neem is a natural product and is very safe to use. In fact neem oil has been used in Southeast Asia as an insecticide, to clean teeth, to treat boils, and as a diuretic. Leaves from neem trees are eaten 'to purify the blood' in Hindu rituals. And neem oil is used in soap manufacture in India (the leftover neem oil cakes are fed to livestock). Neem oil soap can be used in the vegetable garden or orchard right up to the day of harvest. Needless to say; neem oil soap is safe.
What Insects Does Neem Oil Soap Control?
Neem oil soap repels or kills over 50 insect pests, most of which are never even seen in the home landscape. The most common insect pests controlled by neem oil soap include: Aphids, Crickets, Flea beetles, Grasshoppers Japanese beetles, Lacebugs, Mealybugs, Mites, Mole crickets, Scales, Spider mites, Tent caterpillars, Thrips, and Whiteflies.
In the lawn it controls Chinch bugs, regular Crickets, Grasshoppers, and Mole crickets.
In trees and shrubs it controls Adelgids, Aphids, Gypsy moth caterpillars, Hemlock woolly adelgid, Japanese beetles, Lacebugs, Mites, Pear psylla, Pear slug, Psyllids, Scales, Spruce woolly aphids, and Tent caterpillars.
On flowers it controls Aphids, Earwigs, Flea beetles, Grasshoppers, Green stink bugs, Harlequin bugs, Japanese beetles, Lace bugs, Leafhoppers, Leafminer, Mealybugs, Mites, Plant bugs, Rose slugs, Rust mites, Sawflies, Scales, Thrips, and Whiteflies.
In the vegetable garden it controls Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cabbage worms, Colorado potato beetle, Earwigs, Flea beetles, Grasshoppers, Green stink bugs, Japanese beetles, Leafhoppers, Mexican bean beetle, Mites, Squash bugs, Stripped cucumber beetle, and Whiteflies.
On houseplants, it controls Aphids, Mealybugs, Mites, Scale, and Whiteflies.
Using Neem Oil Soap - Precautions
First the no-no’s: Do not use neem oil soap on drought stressed plants. It should not be used on new transplants, and recently rooted cuttings. Because of potential phototoxic problems it is wise not to spray neem oil soap on plants while they are exposed to full sun. Use it early in the morning, better in the evening hours. Avoid using neem oil soap with the air temperature is much above 85F. Because neem oil soap is in fact an oily substance, it can cause problems for certain plants because of the way it filters the sun to the leaf surface. This “phototoxicity effect” can cause the leaves to wilt and flowers to wilt. On most plants it is not a problem at all.
There are a number of the more delicate plants where sometimes it is a problem and sometimes it is not a problem. The trick is to try it on a few leaves and wait a day to see if any wilting occurs. If not it is safe to use. Use this technique on plants such as begonia, camellia, chrysanthemum, plants in the cucumber family, delicate ferns, fuchsias, grapes, impatiens, ivies, palms, peppers, schefflera, some conifers, and succulents such as cactus and bromiliads.
There are some plants that cannot tolerate neem oil soap under any conditions. They include bleeding heart, Crown of Thorns, Gardenia, Horse Chestnut, Jade Plant, Japanese Maple, Lantana, Mountain Ash, and Sweetpeas.
Generally it is wise to avoid spraying the neem oil soap directly on blossoms of most plants.
APHIDS
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects with long, slender mouth parts that they use to pierce stems, leaves, and other tender plant parts and suck out plant fluids. Almost every plant has one or more aphid species that occasionally feeds on it. Many aphid species are difficult to distinguish; however, identification to species is not necessary to control them in most situations.
IDENTIFICATION
Aphids may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black depending on the species and the plants they feed on. A few species appear waxy or woolly due to the secretion of a waxy white or gray substance over their body surface. All are small, pear-shaped insects with long legs and antennae. Most species have a pair of tubelike structures called cornicles projecting backwards out of the hind end of their bodies. The presence of cornicles distinguishes aphids from all other insects.
Generally adult aphids are wingless, but most species also occur in winged forms, especially when populations are high or during spring and fall. The ability to produce winged individuals provides the pest with a way to disperse to other plants when the quality of the food source deteriorates.
Although they may be found singly, aphids often feed in dense groups on leaves or stems. Unlike leafhoppers, plant bugs, and certain other insects that might be confused with them, most aphids do not move rapidly when disturbed.
LIFE CYCLE
Aphids have many generations a year. Most aphids in California's mild climate reproduce asexually throughout most or all of the year with adult females giving birth to live offspring (often as many as 12 per day) without mating. Young aphids are called nymphs. They molt, shedding their skins about four times before becoming adults. There is no pupal stage. Some species mate and produce eggs in fall or winter, which provides them a more hardy stage to survive harsh weather. In some cases, these eggs are laid on an alternative host, usually a perennial plant, for winter survival.
When the weather is warm, many species of aphids can develop from newborn nymph to reproducing adult in 7 to 8 days. Because each adult aphid can produce up to 80 offspring in a matter of a week, aphid populations can increase with great speed.
DAMAGE
Low to moderate numbers of leaf-feeding aphids are usually not damaging in gardens or on trees. However, large populations cause curling, yellowing, and distortion of leaves and stunting of shoots; they can also produce large quantities of a sticky exudate known as honeydew, which often turns black with the growth of a sooty mold fungus. Some aphid species inject a toxin into plants, which further distorts growth. A few species cause gall formations.
Aphids may transmit viruses from plant to plant on certain vegetable and ornamental plants. Squashes, cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, beans, potatoes, lettuces, beets, chards, and bok choy are crops that often have aphid-transmitted viruses associated with them. The viruses cause mottling, yellowing, or curling of leaves and stunting of plant growth. Although losses can be great, they are difficult to prevent through the control of aphids because infection occurs even when aphid numbers are very low: it only takes a few minutes for the aphid to transmit the virus while it takes a much longer time to kill the aphid with an insecticide.
A few aphid species attack parts of plants other than leaves and shoots. The lettuce root aphid is a soil dweller that attacks lettuce roots during most of its cycle, causing lettuce plants to wilt and occasionally die if populations are high. The lettuce root aphid overwinters as eggs on poplar trees, where it produces leaf galls in spring and summer. The woolly apple aphid infests woody parts of apple roots and limbs, often near pruning wounds, and can cause overall tree decline if roots are infested for several years.
MANAGEMENT
Although aphids seldom kill a mature plant, the damage and unsightly honeydew they generate sometimes warrant control. Consider the nonchemical controls discussed below; most insecticides, if used, will destroy beneficial insects along with the pest. On mature trees, such as in citrus orchards, aphids and the honeydew they produce can provide a valuable food source for beneficial insects.
MONITORING
Check your plants regularly for aphids--at least twice weekly when plants are growing rapidly. Many species of aphids cause the greatest damage when temperatures are warm but not hot (65° to 80°F). Catch infestations early. Once aphid numbers are high and they have begun to distort and curl leaves, it is often hard to control them because the curled leaves shelter aphids from insecticides or natural enemies.
Aphids tend to be most prevalent along the upwind edge of the garden and close to other sources of aphids, so make a special effort to check these areas. Many aphid species prefer the undersides of leaves, so turn them over to check them. On trees, clip off leaves from several areas of the tree to check for aphids. Also check for evidence of natural enemies such as lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid fly larvae, and the mummified skins of parasitized aphids. Look for disease-killed aphids as well: they may appear off-color, bloated, or flattened. Substantial numbers of any of these natural control factors can mean that the aphid population may be reduced rapidly without the need for treatment.
Ants are often associated with aphid populations, especially on trees and shrubs, and often are a tip-off that an aphid infestation is present. If you see large numbers of ants climbing up your tree trunks, check for aphids (or other honeydew-producing insects) on limbs and leaves above. To protect their food source, ants ward off many predators and parasites of aphids. Management of ants is a key component of aphid management and is discussed under cultural controls.
In landscape settings, aphids can be monitored by using water-sensitive paper to measure honeydew dripping from the tree. This type of monitoring is of particular interest where there is a low tolerance for dripping honeydew, such as in groups of trees along city streets or in parks and for tall trees where aphid colonies may be located too high to detect. See Dreistadt et al. (1994) in "Suggested Reading" for more details on honeydew monitoring.
BIOLOGICAL CONTROL
Natural enemies can be very important in the control of aphids, especially in gardens not sprayed with broad-spectrum pesticides (organophosphates, carbamates, and pyrethroids) that kill natural enemy species as well as pests. Usually natural enemy populations do not appear in significant numbers until aphids begin to be numerous.
Among the most important natural enemies are various species of parasitic wasps that lay their eggs inside aphids. The skin of the parasitized aphid turns crusty and golden brown, a form called a mummy. The generation time of most parasites is quite short when the weather is warm, so once you begin to see mummies on your plants, the aphid population is likely to be reduced substantially within a week or two.
Many predators also feed on aphids. The most well known are lady beetle, lacewing, and syrphid fly. Naturally occurring predators work best, especially in a small backyard situation. Commercially available lady beetles may give some temporary control when properly handled, although most of them will disperse away from your yard within a few days.
Aphids are very susceptible to fungal diseases when it is humid. Whole colonies of aphids can be killed by these pathogens when conditions are right. Look for dead aphids that have turned reddish or brown; they have a fuzzy, shriveled texture unlike the shiny, bloated, tan-colored mummies that form when aphids are parasitized. Weather can also impact aphids. Populations of many species are reduced by summer heat in the Central Valley and desert areas, and aphid activity is also limited during the coldest part of the year. However, some aphids may be active year round, especially in the milder, central coastal areas of California.
CULTURAL CONTROL
Before planting vegetables, check surrounding areas for sources of aphids and remove them. Aphids often build up on weeds such as sowthistle and mustards, moving onto crop seedlings after they emerge. Check transplants for aphids and remove them before planting.
Where aphid populations are localized on a few curled leaves or new shoots, the best control may be to prune these areas out and dispose of them. In large trees, some aphids thrive in the dense inner canopy; pruning these areas out can make the habitat less suitable.
In some situations ants tend aphids and feed on the honeydew aphids excrete. At the same time, they protect the aphids from natural enemies. If you see ants crawling up aphid-infested trees or woody plants, put a band of sticky material (Tanglefoot, etc.) around the trunk to prevent ants from getting up. Teflon products, which are too slippery for ants to climb up, have also been used. (Note: Do not apply sticky material directly to the bark of young or thin-barked trees or to trees that have been severely pruned; the material may have phytotoxic effects. Wrap the trunk with fabric tree wrap or duct tape and apply sticky material to the wrap.) Alternatively, ant stakes or baits may be used on the ground to control the ants without affecting the aphids or their natural enemies. Prune out other ant routes such as branches touching buildings, the ground, or other trees.
High levels of nitrogen fertilizer favor aphid reproduction. Never use more nitrogen than necessary. Use less soluble forms of nitrogen and apply it in small portions throughout the season rather than all at once. Or better yet, use a urea-based, time-release formulation (most organic fertilizers can be classified as time-release products as compared to synthetically manufactured fertilizers).
Because many vegetables are primarily susceptible to serious aphid damage during the seedling stage, losses can be reduced by growing seedlings under protective covers in the garden, in a greenhouse, or inside and then transplanting them when they are older and more tolerant of aphid feeding. Protective covers will also prevent transmission of aphid-borne viruses.
Aluminum foil mulches have been successfully used to reduce transmission of aphid-borne viruses in summer squashes, melons, and other susceptible vegetables. They repel invading aphid populations, reducing numbers on seedlings and small plants. Another benefit is that yields of vegetables grown on aluminum foil mulches are usually increased by the greater amount of solar energy reflecting on leaves.
To put an aluminum mulch in your garden, remove all weeds and cover beds with aluminum-coated construction paper, which is available in rolls from Reynolds Aluminum Company. Bury the edges of the paper with soil to hold them down. After the mulch is in place, cut or burn 3- to 4-inch diameter holes and plant several seeds or single transplants in each one. You may furrow irrigate or sprinkle your beds; the mulch is sturdy enough to tolerate sprinkling. In addition to repelling aphids, leafhoppers, and some other insects, the mulch will enhance crop growth and control weeds. When summertime temperatures get high, however, remove mulches to prevent overheating plants. An alternative to aluminum-coated construction paper is to spray clear plastic mulch with silver paint. Reflective plastic mulches are also available in many garden stores.
Another way to reduce aphid populations on sturdy plants is to knock them off with a strong spray of water. Most dislodged aphids will not be able to return to the plant, and their honeydew will be washed off as well. Using water sprays early in the day allows plants to dry off rapidly in the sun and be less susceptible to fungal diseases.
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and narrow-range oil (e.g., supreme or superior parafinic-type oil) provide temporary control if applied to thoroughly cover infested foliage. To get thorough coverage, spray these materials with a high volume of water and target the underside of leaves as well as the top. Soaps, neem oil, and narrow range oil only kill aphids present on the day they are sprayed, so applications may need to be repeated. Predators and parasites often become abundant only after aphids are numerous, so applying nonpersistent insecticides like soap or oil may provide more effective long-term control. Although these materials do kill natural enemies that are present on the plant and hit by the spray, because they leave no toxic residue, they do not kill natural enemies that migrate in after the spray. These and other insecticides with only contact activity are generally ineffective in preventing damage from aphids such as the woolly apple aphid or the woolly ash aphid that are protected by galls or distorted foliage. Do not use soaps or oils on water-stressed plants or when the temperature exceeds 90°F. These materials may be phytotoxic to some plants, so check labels and test them out on a portion of the foliage several days before applying a full treatment.
Supreme- or superior-type oils will kill overwintering eggs of aphids on fruit trees if applied as a delayed dormant application just as eggs are beginning to hatch in early spring. These treatments will not give complete control of aphids and are probably not justified for aphid control alone. Earlier applications will not control aphids. Common aphid species controlled include the woolly apple aphid, green apple aphid, rosy apple aphid, mealy plum aphid, and black cherry aphid.
Many other insecticides are available to control aphids in the home garden and landscape, including foliar-applied formulations of malathion, permethrin and acephate (nonfood crops only). While these materials may kill higher numbers of aphids than soaps and oils, their use should be limited because they also kill the natural enemies that provide long-term control of aphids and other pests. Repeated applications of these materials may also result in the development of resistance to the material by the aphid. Insecticides such as oils and soaps are also safer to use when children and pets may be present. Formulations combining insecticidal soaps and pyrethrins may provide slightly more knockdown than soaps alone, yet have fewer negative impacts on natural enemies than malathion, permethrin, and acephate, because pyrethrins break down very quickly. Avoid the use of diazinon and chlorpyrifos; urban garden use of these materials has been identified as a source of pollution in California’s creeks and rivers. Carbaryl is not recommended because it is not very effective against aphids. Acephate has systemic activity, which means it moves through leaves, thus it can be effective where aphids are hidden beneath curling foliage. Acephate is not registered for use on food crops in the garden because it can break down to a much more toxic material. The soil-applied systemic pesticide disulfoton is sometimes applied in roses for aphid control, but it is a highly toxic material to people.
Professional applicators can make soil injections of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid, which is quite effective against aphids infesting large street trees and not very harmful to beneficial soil organisms. Because it takes a substantial time for the product to get from the soil to the growing points of trees, applications must be made up to 2 months before problems are expected.
When considering application of pesticides for aphid control, remember that moderate populations of many aphids attacking leaves of fruit trees or ornamental trees and shrubs do not cause long-term damage. Low populations can be tolerated in most situations and aphids will often disappear when natural enemies or hot temperatures arrive. Often a forceful spray of water or water-soap solution, even on large street trees, when applied with appropriate equipment, will provide sufficient control.
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